Scootering Through Grungy Bogota

Tropical Cartagena got me so used to the incredible heat, that when I landed in cold and rainy Bogota, I was clutching my jacket and shivering in astonishment. It was surprising to discover how much the climate in Colombia changes from one area to another.

My lively female Uber driver told me that the area where I will be staying (Chapinero) has an unofficial name of Chapi-gay. I chuckled at this comment, but was happy to be in a colorful and vibrant district full of bars and restaurants from where I could experience and hear the unbridled joy and laughter of the patrons. Bogota already left an impression of being a very progressive and liberal city. Its vibe really reminded me of Portland, Oregon: moody, grunge, dark and inviting to lose yourself in its layers. My Airbnb was in a brand new building with extra security. I had heard that Bogota is notorious for pick pocketers, so I made sure to wear my backpacks hanging on the front rather than on the back. However I really didn’t feel unsafe anywhere I went.

I was hungry when I arrived. So I located a taco bar that was open late. El Pantera Taqueria had the best tacos I’ve ever eaten. Considering the fact that I live in the taco capital of the US, this is a big deal.

I had never taken a city scooter tour or even been on one. So when I saw that it was offered online through the Get Your Guide app, I immediately booked it through Jaguar Tours. Miguel my guide was so incredible, that I booked extra tours in the following days through the same agency. I first got to taste various different types of coffees, before we decided to hop on the scooters and roam around town. It was a night tour and I was the only guest for this time slot. So it really felt like a completely personalized tour. Bogotá’s got this raw, unapologetic energy that seeps into its streets, especially in the artsy chaos of La Candelaria, where graffiti speaks louder than words and colonial buildings wear time like a badge.

The following day I went to another famous Museum of Gold, visited the Bolivar square, Iglesia de San Francisco before climbing up with a cable car to Monseratte. Once at the top, the views hit like a revelation—Bogotá stretched out endlessly, chaotic yet breathtaking. The vibe is serene but slightly eerie, with the thin air and ancient statues adding to the mountaintop's otherworldly allure.

In another daily adventure, I visited the National Colombian Museum which had an impressive comprehensive collection of national and international artists. Right next door was the Fernando Botero museum. The space is filled with Botero’s iconic, oversized sculptures and paintings, where everything is bloated with meaning, from plump pigeons to distorted nudes. But it’s not just about Botero; the collection includes pieces from masters like Picasso, Dalí, and Monet, all chilling in the same gritty elegance. Only about a kilometer away was the house of Bolivar. This residence was also turned into a museum with a stunning vibrant garden. The constant rain truly made the color pop!

The following day Miguel and I reconnected for a city Bike tour. Together we biked over 30 miles stopping at the Mercado de Paloquemao where I tried various different exotic fruits, the San Rafael graffiti district, the Bolivar park and finishing back at the city center. I grabbed some dinner at a restaurant recommended to me by my Spanish friends in Cartagena called Tierra before heading out for some salsa at Quebracanto. Despite my very tired legs, I had so much fun dancing the night away to an incredible all female live band.

Bogotá isn’t here to impress; it’s here to pull you into its rhythm, flaws and all. Absolutely exhausted but with a full grateful heart, from 2,400 meters I headed to an even higher ground up to the sacred mountains…